Stitchdown shoe



July 12, 1938.

J. P. FREDERICKSEN su'rcabowu SHOE Filed Oct. 26, 1956 Patented July 12, 1938 it i a UNITED STATES, PATIENT oFFic f James P. Frederioksen, Quincy, Mass, assignor to United Shoe. Machinery Corporation, Paterson,

N. J a corporation of New Jersey Application October 26, 1936, Serial No. 107,639 1 Claim. (Cl. 36 -16) The present invention relates to stitchdown Fig. 4 is a perspective view of an insole lacking shoes. both heel and toe portions; It is a common practice in the manufacture of Fig. 5 is a perspective view of a three-soled stitchdown shoes having end stiffeners (that is stitchdown shoe, parts of Which are broken w y 5 i box toes and counters) to provide such stiffeners in order'to illustrate the shoe construction; and 5 with outturned bottom margins which extend to Fig. 6 is a side elevation, partly in section, illusthe edge face of the outsole or intermediate sole. trating the toe portion of a three-soled s'titchdown This additional substance in the end portions of shoesuch as that illustrated in Fig. 5. the outwardly extending margin of the shoe bot- Referring to e ated S o 10 tom causes the edge face of the shoe bottom to be prises an pp it which m y be f any nstru 1oconsiderably wider at the ends of the shoe than tion commonly emp 111 StitChdOWn S at the sides of the shoe and gives the ends of ufacture but as herein illustrated is an upper of the shoe bottom a heavy or bulky appearance he b uc yp The entire bottom margin O which is generally considered undesirable. It is the upper is flanged outwardly as indicated at I2.

an object of the present invention to obviate this The upper ill is provided with a toe stiffener I4 15" objectionable condition by providing a stitchand aheel stiffener or counter the outturned mardown shoe in which the edge face of the outwardsin of which is indicated at It. The upper II] is 1y extending margin of the shoe bottom is no also provided w a lining 18 the nd p t ns wider at the ends of the shoe than at the sides of which may b rn w r y, as indicated 20 of the shoe. at 20 in Fig. 5, or inwardly as indicated at 22 in 20 With the above object in View, the invention Fig- If the e d DO t e s f e lining are comprises a stitchdown shoe, herein illustrated as urn d inward y h y r ured by m n o a three-soled shoe, comprising an extension sole e end po t s O a iIlSOle Such, for example, and an insole which is substantially shorter than s he ins 24 illus r ted in Fi If the en 25 the extension sole and extends only from the tip P t s o the lining are turned outwa y, a5 25 line to the rearward extremity of the shank but indicated in y re secured o the m is of the same width as the extension sole and g O an extension 5016 Such, for example, as extends outwardly to the edge face of th t the intermediate sole 26 illustrated in Fig. 5. sion sole at opposite sides of the shoe. The out- V In Order that the e e of t e s oe bottom 30 turned margins of the upper materials at the may be a uniform Width. s illustrated in ig- 30 ends of the shoe are secured to said extension Bathe Side portions of e insole 24 are Provided sole while the outturned margins of the upper mai m' extending margins 28 (Fig- 1) terials at the sides of the shoe are secured to the Whlch m the fimshed p extend 9 edge face margins of the insole. In the illustrated shoe the of the Shoe bottom as Illustrated m The thickness of the insole is substantially the same as gi zig izg 3 355;; 3 522 122: i g g i gg gi g 35 itj ffii ti g g g g fi f f if extremity of the shank portion of the shoe and S 1 eners an 1 3 8 ers e 1 terminate in end faces 30 which are arranged at trated construction provides a stitchdown shoe right angles to the adjacent side edge faces of havmg sole margm the thlckness of Whlch in the margins 28 and are beveled, as illustrated in 40 the region of the end stiffeners is substantially figs 5 and 6, in order th t t d i b t the same as the thickness of the side portions th margin 28 of the insole and, the outturned of the sole margin. margins of the end stiffeners shall not be objec- The invention will now be described with reftionably abrupt. If the end portions of the lining erence to the accompanying drawing and will be are to be flanged outwardly, as illustrated in Fig. 45

pointed out in the appended claim. 5, the insole, if desired, may extend only from the In the drawing, tip line to the rearward extremity of the shank Fig. l is a perspective view of l t ith an portion of the shoe, as illustrated in Fig. 4, or it insole attached thereto, part of an upper, not yet i may extend m the rearward extremity f the lasted, and part of a lining drawn over the end Shank forwardly t0 the toe of the Shoe, a5 5 portions of the last and secured to the insole; st d in Fig, 2 is a, sectional iew taken on the line It Will be, understood that the illustrated shoe IIII of Fig. 1; lends itself readily to various methods of manu- Fi 3 is a perspective view of an insol having facture. In accordance with one method which no heel portion; may be employed, an insole, for example the in 55 l illustrated in Fig. 5, is then assembled on the last. The toe portion of the upper may have been pre-formed before the upper is assembled on the last or it may be shaped by tensioning it over the last in any known manner after it is assembled thereon. If the end portions of the lining l8 arev to be lasted inwardly over the insole, as illustrated in Fig. 1, slits are now formed. in the margin of the lining adjacent to the ends 30 of the outwardly extending side margins 28 of the insole. The lasting of the end portions of the lining may beperformed by supporting the last on a bench spindle, drawing the lining over the insole by means of hand pincers, and ad hesively securing the overlasted margins of the lining to the margins of the end portions of the insole. If the end portions of the lining are to be flanged outwardly, as illustrated in Fig. 5, it is, of course, unnecessary: to slit the margin of the lining adjacent to the ends-of the side margins of the insole, the beveled end faces 30 of the margins 28 of the insole enabling the lasting operator readily to position the outturned margin of the lining between the overlying and underlying materials in the margin of the shoe bottom, as illustrated in Fig. 6. When the lining I8 is flanged outwardly it is'lasted with the other upper materials, the entire shoe preferably being lasted in one opera-tion, for example in a machine such as'that illustrated and described in United States Letters Patent No. 1,864,510, granted June 21, 1932, upon an application of Bernard T. Leveque. This machine forms a chainstitch seam 34 (Fig. 5) which secures the upper ID, the toe stiffener l4 and the lining l8 to the toe portion of the intermediate sole 26 and secures the upper and lining together with the margins 28 of the insole to the side portions of the intermediate sole and also secures the heel stiffener together with the upper and lining to the heel portion of the extension sole. Preferably the shoe is completed by attaching an outsole 3B and a mock Welt 38 to the margin of the shoe bottom, for example by means of a lockstitch seam 40.

While the invention is herein illustrated in its application to the manufacture of three-soled stitchdown shoes, it is to beunderstood that the invention is not thus limited in its scope but is applicable, as well, to the manufacture of twosole stitchdown shoes. For example, the outturned margins of the upper materials could be attached by cement to the margins of the sole 26 and permanently secured thereto by a lockstitch seam, in which case the sole 26 could, if desired, be the outsole of the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States is:

A stitchdown shoe having an extension sole and an insole which extends only from the tip line to the rearward extremity of the shank and. which extends outwardly to the edge face of the extension sole, the outturned margins of the upper materials at the ends of the shoe being secured to the extension sole while the outturned margins of the upper materials at the sides of the shoe are secured to the margins of the insole.

JAMES P. FREDERICKSEN. 

